An urbane, middle-aged acquaintance who has discovered fine wine, is hurrying to make up for lost time. He wants to know everything before the sun sets today. What periodicals should I buy? he asks, reeling off a prospective subscription list that would drown the Library of Congress. My acquaintance, who perhaps does not yet fully appreciate what he is up against, easily gets to the bottom of his wine glass, but he will never get to the bottom of what there is to know about wine.